Burgundy 2022: freshness and finesse
I always find it interesting reading what other people are saying about a vintage. I try, wholeheartedly, not to let it sway my views. And somehow I’ve been left feeling a little guilty about my coverage of 2022, which perhaps isn’t as glowing as that of others… the headlines are full of hype. And if you don’t read the fine print, you might think that this is the best vintage ever for the region. Had I misjudged it by acknowledging its (relatively minor) weaknesses?
Don’t get me wrong – there are plenty of delicious wines in 2022, and some are sensational. They’re gorgeously gluggable, full of juicy fruit, savoury freshness and aromatic finesse. But are they as consistent as some people suggest? From what I’ve tasted, no. Are they truly great? Some, possibly, yes – but as the most serious critics are actually saying too, not really. It’s an excellent, but not quite outstanding, vintage. There are some superb wines of both colours, but it’s not a year to buy blindly – there are some low acid levels, some jammy or overly ripe fruit, and some firmer tannins when it comes to the Pinot Noir. That said, perhaps as is true every year, with the producers that know what they’re doing, the wines won’t disappoint, and are full of joy.
Read my full vintage report and breakdown by producer, as well as what the critics are saying, on frw.co.uk/editorial
Producers that I particularly loved in 2022:
Charles Audoin
Fourrier
Duroché
Denis Mortet
Georges Lignier
Hudelot-Noëllat
Lamarche
Remoissenet
Faiveley
Jean Grivot
Henri Boillot
